NERJA . This was a village before it was a resort, so it has some character, and development (more villas, fewer tower blocks) has been shaped around it. The beaches are also attractive, with a series of coves within walking distance if you want to escape the main mass of crowds. There are plenty of other great walks around Nerja, too, well documented in a locally available guide, Twelve Walks Around Nerja, Frigiliana and Maro by Elma and Denis Thompson, available from Libreria Idiomas, almost opposite the touritst Office . For a little more freedom of movement Club Nautico de Nerja, Avda. Castilla Perez 2 ( Tel 952 524 654 ), west of the centre, rents out mopeds and bikes , as well as offering horse-riding and diving tuition. Nerja's chief tourist attraction, the Cuevas de Nerja ( daily 10am-2pm & 4-8pm ), 3km from the town, are a series of caverns, impressive in size - and home to the world's longest known stalactite at 63m.

The main bus station (actually a stand) is on Calle San Miguel at the north end of the town close to Plaza Cantarero; from here hourly buses leave for the cuevas . It's a five-minute walk south from the station to the beach and centre, or old town, where you'll find the helpful turismo at Calle Puerta del Mar 2 ( April-Sept daily 10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm; tel 952 521 531 ), just to the east of the Balcon de Europa, an attractive palm-lined belvedere.

Nerja's main drawback, and a thorny problem through most of the summer, is scarce accommodation . There are a dozen or so hostales , most reserved well in advance, although some have arrangements with casas particulares who mop up the overflow; the turismo can provide a full accommodation list. Budget choices include the friendly Hostal Azahara , located next to the bus stop, on the main road coming into 'Nerja', 'Avda de Pescia', coming from Malaga on N340 take first exit to 'Nerja', 2nd roundabout, 3rd exit towards 'Parador', on the left side next to 'Olmo electric store'. Another popular choice is the Hostal Abril located in the most beautiful and important street of Nerja, Calle Pintada, a few minutes walk to the Balcon de Europa and the beaches of "Salon" and "Calahonda". The campsite , Nerja Camping ( tel 952 529 714; open all year ), with pool, bar and restaurant, is 4km east of town along the N340.