GUADALAJARA , north from Alcala de Henares, is not terribly exciting despite its famous name. Severely battered during the Civil War, it's now a small industrial city, provincial and somewhat scruffy. There are, however, a few worthwhile buildings which survived bombardment, notably the Palacio del Infantado ( Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm & 4.15-7pm, Sun 10.15am-2pm ) and an assortment of medieval churches. The palacio , the former home of the Duke of Mendoza, boasts a wonderful decorative facade and cloister-like patio ( Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 10am-2pm & 4-8pm; free ), and now houses a fairly average local art museum. It is to be found a few blocks to the northwest of the town's large, park-like central square, Plaza Capitán Beixareu Rivera.

There's a friendly turismo opposite the palace ( Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 4-7pm, Sun 10am-2pm; Tel 949 211 626 ). Some of the local accommodation includes the recently refurbished Hotel Espana , Calle Teniente Figueroa 3, which is a good option or even cheaper is Pension Galicia , Calle San Roque 16. Bars and restaurants are plentiful, too. Can Vic on Plaza Fernando Beládiez is a good, low-priced place, or for a seafood and fish blow-out there's Casa Victor at Calle Bardales 6. Late-night and music bars are mostly to be found along Calle Sigüenza.

The main road and rail lines from Madrid to Zaragoza and Barcelona both pass through Alcala and Guadalajara, and continue more or less parallel throughout their journeys. Sigüenza and Medinaceli each make excellent resting points on your way. From Guadalajara you can also cut down to Cuenca, and from there continue towards Valencia and the coast. This is a very beautiful drive, past the great dams of the Embalse de Entrepeñas and Embalse de Buendía, and takes you through the heart of the Alcarria region