During the reconquest of Andalucia, CAZORLA acted as an outpost for Christian troops, and the two castles which still dominate the town testify to its turbulent past - both were originally Moorish but later altered and restored by their Christian conquerors. Today it's the main base for visits to the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Segura y Cazorla , a vast protected area of magnificent river gorges and forests. Cazorla also hosts the fiesta de Cristo del Consuelo , with fairgrounds, fireworks and religious processions on September 16-21.

Cazorla itself is constructed around three main squares. Buses arrive in the busy, commercial Plaza de la Constitución , where there's a privately run tourist office , Quercus (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm, Sat & Sun 9am-2pm & 6-9pm; tel 953 720 115 ), offering Land Rover and horse-riding day trips into the park. The main Calle de Muñoz connects with the second square, the Plaza de la Corredera (or del Huevo , "of the Egg", because of its shape). The seat of the administration, the ayuntamiento , is here, a fine Moorish-style palace at the far end of the plaza. Beyond, a labyrinth of narrow, twisting streets leads to Cazorla's liveliest square, the Plaza Santa María . This takes its name from the old cathedral which, damaged by floods in the seventeenth century, was later torched by Napoleonic troops. Its ruins, now preserved, and the fine open square form a natural amphitheatre for concerts and local events as well as being a popular meeting place. The square is dominated by La Yedra , an austere, reconstructed castle tower, which houses the Museo de Artes y Costumbres (Mon-Sat 9.30am-2.30pm; free), an interesting folklore museum displaying domestic utensils and furniture.