TORREMOLINOS , to its enduring credit, is certainly different: a vast, parody of a seaside resort, which in its own kitschy way is fascinating. This bizarre place, lined with sweeping (but crowded) beaches and infinite shopping arcades, crammed with (genuine) Irish pubs and (probably less genuine) real-estate agents, has a large permanent expatriate population of British, Germans and Scandinavians. It's a weird mix, which, in addition to thousands of retired people, has attracted - due to a previous lack of extradition arrangements between Britain and Spain - an extraordinary concentration of British crooks and more recently Russian mafia bosses. Torremolinos's social scene is strange, too, including, among the middle-of-the-road family discos, a thriving, pram-pushing, gay transvestite scene. All in all it's an intriguing blend of the smart and the squalid, bargains and rip-offs.
There are plenty of cheap hostales sandwiched between the high-rise horrors: Pensión Beatriz , c/Peligro 4 (tel 952 385 110; ¬18-27), and Hostal Micaela , c/Bajondillo 4 (tel 952 383 310; ¬27-36), are both near the beach and fairly cheap. The resort's campsite (tel 952 382 602) lies 3km east of the centre on the main Málaga-Cádiz highway, 500m from the sea; get there by taking the cercanía train to the Los Alamos stop or bus "Línea B" from the central Plaza Costa del Sol. The turismo in Plaza Pablo Picasso (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm; tel 952 379 512) and a branch in Plaza del Lido on the seafront (daily 10am-2pm & 5-8pm) can provide more information on what accommodation is available.
The sheer competition between Torremolinos's restaurants, clubs and bars is so intense that if you're prepared to walk round and check a few prices you can have a pretty good night out on remarkably little. The more elegant part of the resort lies to the east at La Carihuela , where there's a decent beach, good seafood restaurants along the seafront and, if you're staying, the pleasant Hostal Flor Blanco , Paseo de la Carihuela 41 (tel 952 382 071; ¬36-48).
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