"Seville," wrote Byron, "is a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women." And for its heat, he might perhaps have added, since SEVILLA 's summers are intense and start early, in May. But the spirit, for all its nineteenth-century chauvinism, is about right. Sevilla has three important monuments and an illustrious history, but what it's essentially famous for is its own living self - the greatest city of the Spanish south, of Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro, and the archetype of Andalucian promise. This reputation for gaiety and brilliance, for theatricality and intensity of life, does seem deserved. It's expressed on a phenomenally grand scale at the city's two great festivals - Semana Santa (in the week before Easter) and the Feria de Abril (which starts two weeks after Easter Sunday and lasts a week). Either is worth considerable effort to get to.

Sevilla is also Spain's second most important centre for bullfighting , after Madrid. Its elegance, charm, and wealth are mostly based on food processing, shipbuilding, construction and a thriving tourist industry. The total refurbishment of the infrastructure boosted by the 1992 Expo - including impressive new roads, seven bridges, a high-speed rail link and a revamped airport.

Sevilla's most famous present-day native son is the former prime minister, Felipe González , who led the Socialist administration that governed Spain for fourteen years until his defeat in 1996. Another, more bizarre Sevillano is one Gregorio XVII , who calls himself the true pope; in defiance of his excommunication by the Vatican, "Pope Greg" is leader of a large ultra-reactionary order which has made the dead Franco a saint and has built an extensive new "Vatican" in the countryside to the south of the city.

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Fería de Abril Sevilla's week-long fiesta is Andalucía at its celebratory best, with a vast fair of flamenco dance tents, and horsemen and women dressed to kill.

La Giralda One of the city's principal landmarks is la Giralda - a colossal tower originally erected by the Moors as a mosque minaret and later converted into a bell tower for the world's largest Gothic cathedral. You get an incredible view from the top.

María Luisa Park Beat the heat of the afternoon and steel yourself for a long night on the town with a nap in Sevilla's elegant María Luisa Park. There's plenty of cool shade to doze in, and the dreamy tone is accentuated by the trickle of fountains.

Bar Modesto As the city which claims to have invented tapas, Sevilla knocks spots off the competition. A good place to pick up the trail is Bar Modesto , in the Santa Cruz district, which offers just about every tapas imaginable.

La Carbonería Outside Feria week, flamenco music is hard to find in Sevilla, with most venues offering tacky "shows" instead of the real thing. La Carbonería is an exception - a quirky bar north of Santa Cruz church which hosts sessions by local gypsy musicians most night of the week.

La marcha Nightlife in Sevilla, known for good reason as la marcha (marching), usually means an interminable tapas-bar crawl around Santa Cruz, followed by a session in a nightclub and a mass get-together at dawn in the Plaza San Salvador. Not for the fainthearted.

There are truly some beautiful, charming and authentic hotels in Sevilla , some of the top rated Hotels include the Silken Andalus Palace The Silken is located a short drive from Seville's city centre, by the Plaza de España. This design hotel is surrounded by 15 hectares (37 acres) of beautiful gardens. Here there is a large relaxation area. There is also a gym and a sauna. Gourmet, Italian and buffet cuisine are available at the Silken Al Andalus's 2 restaurants. Buffet breakfast is served. Seville's historic centre is 10 minutes away and a bus stops outside the hotel. There is also a taxi stand just outside. There is easy access to the airport and railway station.

Another popular establishment is the Hotel Becquer Hotel Becquer is located in the old centre of Sevilla, by the River Guadalquivir. The Triana and Santa Cruz Neighborhood and the Bullring are within a 10-minute walk.

An excellent 2 star hotel is the Hotel Murillo Located in the heart of Seville, in the historic Santa Cruz neighbourhood. It is full of antique objects and paintings. The Murillo's design includes hand-carved wood, wooden ceilings and marble.

For shear luxury the Hotel Alfonso XIII is quite unique in its splendor. Conceived to be the most luxurious hotel in Europe when it was commissioned in 1928, the Alfonso XIII still remains one of Spain's most prestigious properties and reflects the grace of Andalucia's Arab heritage. The hotel is located in the centre of the city of Carmen on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The 147 rooms, including 19 suites, are individually designed and tastefully furnished for extraordinary comfort. The Hotel Alfonso XIII still remains the hotel of choice for distinguished travelers worldwide.

Sevilla caters very well for the budget traveler with some impressive Hostels located all over the city and from only 10 Euros a night. Some of the best Hostels in Seville include the Samay Hostel which is located in the heart of Sevilla's oldest neighborhood. Their team is comprised of backpackers and independent travelers who have created the perfect space for those who want more from their hostel in Sevilla. The Hostel is a completely restored old traditional Sevillan town house, adding extra value with a unique touch.

Anotehr firm favoruite is the Triana Backpacker which is one of the most beautiful hostels located in a historical Sevillian house; in Triana Backpackers you will find a characteristic Sevillian atmosphere away from the tourist crowds and only 15 minutes walking distance to the Cathedral and the Alcazar. The rooms and rooftop are the perfect places to spend a nice time chatting with friends. And one of the better places in Seville, to have fun at night is Betis Street, plenty of bars and terrazas where people enjoy overlooking the Guadalquivir River and the illuminated Giralda, Cathedral and Torre del Oro, and all just 2 minutes walk from the hostel.