There's certainly little to tempt anyone before NERJA . This was a village before it was a resort, so it has some character, and development (more villas, fewer tower blocks) has been shaped around it. The beaches are also reasonably attractive, with a series of coves within walking distance if you want to escape the main mass of crowds. There are plenty of other great walks around Nerja, too, well documented in a locally available guide, Twelve Walks Around Nerja, Frigiliana and Maro by Elma and Denis Thompson, available from Librería Idiomas, almost opposite the turismo. For a little more freedom of movement Club Nautico de Nerja, Avda. Castilla Perez 2 ( tel 952 524 654 ), west of the centre, rents out mopeds and bikes , as well as offering horse-riding and diving tuition. Nerja's chief tourist attraction, the Cuevas de Nerja ( daily 10am-2pm & 4-8pm; ¬4.50, kids ¬2.40 ), 3km from the town, are a heavily commercialized series of caverns, impressive in size - and home to the world's longest known stalactite at 63m - though otherwise not tremendously interesting. They also contain a number of prehistoric paintings, but these are not presently on public view.

The main bus station (actually a stand) is on Calle San Miguel at the north end of the town close to Plaza Cantarero; from here hourly buses leave for the cuevas . It's a five-minute walk south from the station to the beach and centre, or old town, where you'll find the helpful turismo at Calle Puerta del Mar 2 ( April-Sept daily 10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm; tel 952 521 531 ), just to the east of the Balcon de Europa, an attractive palm-lined belvedere.

Nerja's main drawback, and a thorny problem through most of the summer, is scarce accommodation . There are a dozen or so hostales , most reserved well in advance, although some have arrangements with casas particulares who mop up the overflow; the turismo can provide a full accommodation list. Budget choices include the friendly Hostal Montesol , Calle Pintada 130, just off Plaza Cantarero near the bus station, or, west of the turismo, the tidy Hostal Atenbeni , Calle Diputación 12 , and the very pleasant Hostal Mena , Calle El Barrio 15 , with a garden. Overlooking one of Nerja's most popular beaches, Playa de Burriana, are the Parador Nacional , Calle Almunécar 8. The campsite , Nerja Camping ( tel 952 529 714; open all year ), with pool, bar and restaurant, is 4km east of town along the N340.