Heading north from Porto Cristo, it's about 20km to ARTA , an ancient hill town of sun-bleached roofs clustered beneath a castellated chapel-shrine, with the bunching peaks of the Serres de Llevant providing a dramatic backdrop. It's a delightful scene although to some visitors the cobweb of cramped and twisted alleys doesn't quite match the setting.

Nonetheless, the ten-minute trek to the Santuari de Sant Salvador , the shrine at the top of Arta, is a must for the views out over eastern Mallorca. Also make time to visit the substantial remains of the prehistoric settlement of Ses Paisses ( April-Sept daily 9am-1pm & 3-7pm; Oct-March Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm, Sat 9am-1pm, tucked away in a grove of olive, carob and holm oak trees about 1km to the south of the town. Buses to Arta stop on the edge of the town centre, beside the C 715. From the bus stop, it's a couple of hundred metres west to the short main street, Calle Ciutat, where there are several cafes . The best is Cafe Parisien, at no. 18, a trendy little place with an outside terrace, that offers tasty tapas and salads at reasonable prices. The Ca'n Balague , at no. 19, is a more traditional café-bar also serving light meals.

Arta is a major crossroads: to the east , the main road cuts through the village of CAPDEPERA - a dusty, elongated village, crouched below a fine crenellated castle - before descending to the coast at the massive resort of CALA RAJADA , whose excellent beaches are a favourite haunt of German package tourists. Twice-daily, passenger-only catamarans connect the resort with Ciutadella in Menorca throughout the year. To the west , the C 712 weaves through the hills to Ca'n Picafort and the Badia d'Alcúdia.