ALMERÍA is a pleasant, modern city, spread at the foot of a stark grey mountain. At the summit is a tremendous Alcazaba (daily 9am-8.30pm; Oct-Mar closes 6pm; ( Euros1.50, free for EU citizens), probably the best surviving example of Moorish military fortification, with three huge walled enclosures, in the second of which are the remains of a mosque, converted to a chapel by the Reyes Católicos. In the eleventh century, when Almería was an independent kingdom and the wealthiest, most commercially active city of Spain, this citadel contained immense gardens and palaces and some 20,000 people.

Almeria`s grandeur was reputed to rival the court of Granada but comparisons are impossible since little beyond the walls and towers remains, the last remnants of stuccowork having been sold off by the locals in the eighteenth century.

From the Alcazaba, however, you do get a good view of the coast, of Almería's cave quarter - the Barrio de la Chanca on a low hill to the left - and of the city's strange fortified Cathedral (Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm, Sun service hours, built in the sixteenth century at a time when the southern Mediterranean was terrorized by the raids of Barbarossa and other Turkish and North African pirate forces; its corner towers once held cannons.

Try sampling many of the cafés, tapas bars and terrazas in the streets circling the Puerta de Purchena, the focal junction of the modern town, and strolling along the main Paseo de Almería down towards the harbour, and taking day-trips out to the beaches along the coast. The city's own beach lies southeast of the centre beyond the train lines.

Almeria hides some hidden gems if you are a lover of quiet and pristine beaches, clean and warm waters. In the eastern part of the province is the Cabo de Gata natural park where construction has been kept to an absolute minimum . Warm and clear waters flow all along the shores of this natural park and is a ideal for tranquil bathing and snorkeling enthusiasts. On my last visit I must have spent half of my holiday exploring the clear shallow waters around the rocky outcrops. If this type of holiday floats your boat then head for places like Los Escullos, The Playa de los Genoveses, San Jose and Playa de Monsul. This quite beaches and towns may be slightly off the beaten track but are well worth the trip.

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Google Map of Almeria

A popular hotel right on the beach of San Jose if the Hotel Servigroup Marina Playa This seafront hotel offers 4 swimming pools, a reserved area on Mojacar Beach and a spa with jacuzzi, sauna and a gym. Marina Mojácar Golf Course is just 50 metres away. Servigroup Marina Playa’s modern rooms have a private balcony, many with sea views. Rooms come with LCD TV, a mini fridge and free Wi-Fi. Safes can be rented on request. The Marina Playa’s restaurant serves buffet meals, including themed buffets and children's menus in summer. There is also a poolside bar, an Irish pub and a snack bar on the beach.

Other popular great value hotels in and around Almeria include:

Hotel Don Angel in Roquetas del Mar.
and
Hotel AR Almerimar in Almerimar.